{"id":322,"date":"2009-03-12T04:33:41","date_gmt":"2009-03-12T04:33:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/?p=322"},"modified":"2023-01-23T21:56:20","modified_gmt":"2023-01-23T18:56:20","slug":"baska-bir-istanbul-fener-balat-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/?p=322","title":{"rendered":"Ba\u015fka Bir \u0130stanbul: Fener-Balat"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-322 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-medium'><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2567-8.jpg'><img width=\"199\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2567-8-199x300.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"\" decoding=\"async\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2567-8-199x300.jpg 199w, https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2567-8.jpg 533w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 199px) 100vw, 199px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2591.jpg'><img width=\"199\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2591-199x300.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"\" decoding=\"async\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2591-199x300.jpg 199w, https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2591.jpg 533w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 199px) 100vw, 199px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2584.jpg'><img width=\"300\" height=\"199\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2584-300x199.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"\" decoding=\"async\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2584-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2584.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2580-15.jpg'><img width=\"300\" height=\"199\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2580-15-300x199.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"\" decoding=\"async\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2580-15-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2580-15.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2563-7.jpg'><img width=\"300\" height=\"199\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2563-7-300x199.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"\" decoding=\"async\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2563-7-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2563-7.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2613.jpg'><img width=\"199\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2613-199x300.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium\" alt=\"\" decoding=\"async\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2613-199x300.jpg 199w, https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/DSC_2613.jpg 533w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 199px) 100vw, 199px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p><strong>\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>SAG\u00dcSAD (Sakarya G\u00fczel Sanatlar Derne\u011fi) olarak k\u00fclt\u00fcrel gezilerimize bir yenisini ekliyoruz. Bug\u00fcn Hali\u00e7\u2019teyiz.<\/p>\n<p>Adapazar\u0131\u2019ndan 7.30 da otob\u00fcsle yola koyulduk. \u0130stanbul\u2019dan bize kat\u0131lanlar ve rehberimizle Kadir Has \u00dcniversitesi\u2019nin \u00f6n\u00fcnde bulu\u015fuyoruz. 50 ki\u015fiden fazlay\u0131z. Rehberimiz Elif Toprak, sanat tarihi \u00f6\u011frenimi g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f, tam anlam\u0131yla \u201cate\u015f gibi\u201d bir gen\u00e7 han\u0131m. Konusunu bilmenin \u00e7ok \u00f6tesine ge\u00e7mi\u015f art\u0131k. Geni\u015f bir a\u00e7\u0131dan bakarak yorum yapacak kadar tarihe merakl\u0131. B\u0131raksak bir anlatt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 bir daha, bir daha anlatacak. B\u0131kar\u0131z diye anlatm\u0131yor. Kendini zor tutuyor.<\/p>\n<p>Cibali T\u00fct\u00fcn Fabrikas\u0131, restore edilerek Kadir Has \u00dcniversitesi\u2019ne d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f. An\u0131lar, sonsuz bir de\u011ferbilirlikle sergileniyor burada. \u00c7e\u015fitli objeler ve siyah-beyaz foto\u011fraflar\u2026 Fabrikan\u0131n \u00e7al\u0131\u015fanlar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz foto\u011fraflarda. 1900 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u00e7ekilmi\u015f \u00e7o\u011fu\u2026 1500 kad\u0131n \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yormu\u015f, 662 de erkek.<\/p>\n<p>Fabrika, sosyal ve ekonomik bak\u0131mdan b\u00fcy\u00fck bir de\u011fi\u015fim yaratm\u0131\u015f b\u00f6lgede. Kendi i\u00e7inde kurumlar\u0131n\u0131 olu\u015fturmu\u015f. Hastanesi, polisi, okulu, bir yang\u0131n birimi, sosyal tesisi, bakkal\u0131, lokantalar\u0131, sendikas\u0131yla, yabanc\u0131 sermayenin y\u00f6netti\u011fi k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir \u015fehir gibiymi\u015f. Osmanl\u0131\u2019n\u0131n ekonomik ve mali ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 yitirdi\u011fi o pek ac\u0131kl\u0131 d\u00f6nemde, Frans\u0131z Reji \u0130daresi devlet i\u00e7inde devletmi\u015f sanki. Fabrika, Cumhuriyetin ilk y\u0131llar\u0131nda Cumhuriyet H\u00fck\u00fcmeti\u2019ne devredilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n<p>1884\u2019te kurulan T\u00fct\u00fcn Fabrikas\u0131, yakla\u015f\u0131k y\u00fcz y\u0131l sonra Kadir Has Vakf\u0131 taraf\u0131ndan restore edilmi\u015f. Yap\u0131, bir e\u011fitim, bilim ve k\u00fclt\u00fcr yuvas\u0131 olarak sayg\u0131 uyand\u0131r\u0131yor. Alt\u0131ndaki katmanlarda bir Bizans sarn\u0131c\u0131 ve bir de Osmanl\u0131 hamam kal\u0131nt\u0131s\u0131 var. Bu b\u00f6l\u00fcmler, Rezan Has M\u00fczesi\u2019nin mek\u00e2n\u0131n\u0131 olu\u015fturuyor.<\/p>\n<p>Ya\u011fmur \u00e7iselerken Fener sokaklar\u0131na dal\u0131yor kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z. Fener Rum Patrikhane kilisesinde kalabal\u0131k bir pazar ayinine tan\u0131k oluyoruz. G\u00f6z kama\u015ft\u0131r\u0131c\u0131 \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131yla g\u00f6rkemli avizeler\u2026 \u0130nsan\u0131 \u015fa\u015fk\u0131na \u00e7eviren bir ayr\u0131nt\u0131 zenginli\u011fi, bir \u015fa\u015faa\u2026 T\u00fcts\u00fc kokular\u0131 buram buram\u2026 \u0130nsanlar t\u00f6rene gelirken bak\u0131ml\u0131 ve temiz\u2026<\/p>\n<p>Biz, b\u00f6yle bir ortamda foto\u011fraf makinelerimiz ve kocaman s\u0131rt \u00e7antalar\u0131m\u0131zla dikkat \u00e7ekiyoruz. \u201cFla\u015f kullanmay\u0131n!\u201d diyor g\u00f6revli, \u00f6nce\u2026 Sonra foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekmeyi toptan yasakl\u0131yor.<\/p>\n<p>Osmanl\u0131 d\u00f6neminde bu semtte ya\u015fayan Rumlara \u201cFenerli Beyler\u201d deniyor. Soylu ve varl\u0131kl\u0131 Rum aileleri yerle\u015ftiriliyor buraya. Ta\u015f konaklarda oturuyorlar. Devletin \u00fcst kademelerinde voyvodal\u0131k, el\u00e7ilik, terc\u00fcmanl\u0131k gibi \u00f6nemli g\u00f6revlere getiriliyorlar. Gayrim\u00fcslimlerle T\u00fcrklerin y\u00fczy\u0131llar s\u00fcren bir arada ya\u015fam\u0131\u015fl\u0131klar\u0131, Osmanl\u0131 devlet y\u00f6netiminin incelikleriyle a\u00e7\u0131klanabiliyor ancak. <em>\u201cEvlerini T\u00fcrklerin evlerinden b\u00fcy\u00fck yapamasalar ve belki renk renk boyayamasalar da kendi \u00f6zg\u00fcn giysilerini giyebiliyorlar, ibadetlerini yap\u0131yorlar ve \u015faraplar\u0131n\u0131 i\u00e7iyorlard\u0131.\u201d<\/em> diyor Do\u011fan Kuban, \u201c\u0130stanbul-Bir Kent Tarihi\u201d adl\u0131 kitab\u0131nda.<\/p>\n<p>Balat, \u0130stanbul\u2019un en eski semtlerinden. Burada tarih boyunca \u00e7o\u011funluk Musevilerde. Rum, Ermeni ve T\u00fcrkler de var. Hepsinin birden dinsel ve k\u00fclt\u00fcrel izlerini ta\u015f\u0131yor, yoksul g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fclerin aras\u0131nda. Her iki semtte de az\u0131nl\u0131k n\u00fcfus b\u00f6lgeyi \u00e7oktan terk etmi\u015f. Ama UNESCO\u2019nun y\u00fcr\u00fctt\u00fc\u011f\u00fc, Avrupa Konseyi\u2019nin finanse etti\u011fi \u201cFener Balat Yenileme Projesi\u201d kapsam\u0131nda yap\u0131lan \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar, ge\u00e7mi\u015fin izlerini t\u00fcm g\u00fczellikleriyle ortaya \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131yor yava\u015f yava\u015f.<\/p>\n<p>Tamamen k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 tu\u011fladan, \u015fa\u015f\u0131lacak derecede b\u00fcy\u00fck, g\u00f6rkemli bir yap\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz tepede. Fener Rum Lisesi ya da \u201cK\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 Mektep\u201d\u2026 1881\u2019de yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. O devirde Rumlar\u0131n e\u011fitime verdikleri \u00f6nemin bir g\u00f6stergesi olsa gerek. Eskiden erkek lisesiymi\u015f. Bir de k\u0131z lisesi var biraz a\u015fa\u011f\u0131da. Ama onun gibi g\u00f6steri\u015fli de\u011fil, pek sade. Her ikisinde de \u00e7ok iyi e\u011fitim verilirmi\u015f. K\u0131z \u00f6\u011frenciler uzak semtlerden geliyorlarsa buradaki akrabalar\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131nda kal\u0131rlarm\u0131\u015f. Daha sonra Rum n\u00fcfusu azald\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in K\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 Mektep\u2019te toplanm\u0131\u015flar. 50 \u00f6\u011frencisiyle kapanmaya direniyor \u015fimdilerde.<\/p>\n<p>Anlatacaklar\u0131m bitmedi. \u201cOkuyacak, \u00f6\u011frenecek, gezip g\u00f6recek \u00e7ok \u015fey var burada\u201d demekle yetiniyorum. Hepimiz bay\u0131ld\u0131k bu geziye\u2026 G\u00fcn yetmedi. Balat\u2019\u0131n me\u015fhur galeta f\u0131r\u0131n\u0131ndan ald\u0131klar\u0131m\u0131zla o k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck sokak kahvesinde i\u00e7ti\u011fimiz s\u0131cak \u00e7ay\u0131n tad\u0131 dama\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda hala.<\/p>\n<p>Hepsi bir yana, rehberimiz Elif\u2019e bizden 10 numara!<\/p>\n<p><em>Foto\u011fraflar: \u0130.Arzu A\u00e7\u0131kel<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>12\/03\/2009<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>Bizim Sakarya Gazetesi<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0 SAG\u00dcSAD (Sakarya G\u00fczel Sanatlar Derne\u011fi) olarak k\u00fclt\u00fcrel gezilerimize bir yenisini ekliyoruz. Bug\u00fcn Hali\u00e7\u2019teyiz. Adapazar\u0131\u2019ndan 7.30 da otob\u00fcsle yola koyulduk. \u0130stanbul\u2019dan bize kat\u0131lanlar ve rehberimizle Kadir Has \u00dcniversitesi\u2019nin \u00f6n\u00fcnde bulu\u015fuyoruz. 50 ki\u015fiden fazlay\u0131z. Rehberimiz Elif Toprak, sanat tarihi \u00f6\u011frenimi g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f, tam anlam\u0131yla \u201cate\u015f gibi\u201d bir gen\u00e7 han\u0131m. Konusunu bilmenin \u00e7ok \u00f6tesine ge\u00e7mi\u015f art\u0131k. Geni\u015f bir [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[468],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/322"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=322"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/322\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5486,"href":"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/322\/revisions\/5486"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=322"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=322"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tamayacikel.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=322"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}